Day 7
We settle on kayaking as our tour for the day, which doesn't start till 3PM. We spend the morning getting supplied for our trip. I buy a sweet pair of pants at a second hand store, and a hat, and we load up on some groceries. Planning on going to the beach we take a wrong turn and instead head to Puerto Jimenez. This is an interesting ride and we have to pass over 5 or 6 rickety one lane bridges that are being replaced by new big bridges. Clearly, the road down here will be very different in 6 months. Puerto Jimenez is a nice little town, more like a single strip with an impressively large supermarket at the end. It looks like an old west Mexican town and you can imagine some gunslingers ridding in and having a shoot out. We head to the beach looking for cevice and find a place that seems to offer a lot, but when we order they only have one type. However, it is still pretty good.
We head back to La Palma for our kayak tour. We have a nice second lunch, which is provided as part of the tour and then head out to the water. Our guide doesn't seem to speak any English, which looks like it may be a bit of a problem. We kayak out on the ocean and then into a mangrove swamp. The guide's daughter joins us as we kayak up this river looking for wildlife. We see an agouti in a tree and maybe some other things but since we don't really understand what our guide is saying it is hard to be sure. Either way it is nice to be on the water during the day keeping it cool.
Back at the lodge we treat our clothes with an insect repellent and then back for our major hike tomorrow. Our guide wants to leave by 5:30, but they won't serve breakfast before 6:00 so we are saved.
Day 8
We wake at 5:30, get our packs, have breakfast and get ready to go. When our guide, Rodolfo, arrives he tells us we don't need tents but we need more water, so we have to repack out bags. We take a taxi up a river, I mean literally up a river, weaving in and out of the stream and sometimes driving in the middle of it. It is a hell of a drive and you can easily see why it is not passable during most of the year. We start our hike the ranger station at La Leona, it is 20km to the ranger station we will be spending the night at, Sirena. We start off and 10m into the hike at our first river crossing we find that Andreas, who is the only one of us to have gone with the local rubber boots instead of switching into tevas, had the good sense to choose a boot with a hole in it. So his one foot gets immediately trenched with water.
On we go, the rain forest is cool and we are basically alone in it. Rodolfo points out wildlife and trees along the way. We see a snake, monkeys and birds. The hike is somewhat up and down and the humidity is awful, which with our packs is pretty strenuous. I am tired the first hour into it, and we have many more to go. We make it to our lunch stop, where Rodolfo provides sandwiches and a much needed break. We see a hawk sitting by the river and meet a Czech couple who are bold enough to make this trek on there own. We suit up and head off. We see more monkeys and interesting things along the way, but the hike is very hard and my primary focus in on survival. When I feel like we are getting close, Rodolfo tells us 2km more. But he is only kidding and 5 minutes later we emerge at the Serena ranger station. I am very happy to see the place. We are served dinner at the station and I have like triple servings to try and make up some of the calories we lost during the day. I head straight to bed after dinner, but Andreas and Laura spend sometime chatting with Rodolfo. We have tents to sleep in, inside of a semi-enclosed room. I pass right out, but inside the tent it is far to hot and I wake constantly trenched in sweat. I hardly sleep throughout the whole night and I actually look forward to escaping the tent in the morning.
Day 9
We wake at 4:30AM for a predawn hike. None of us slept during the night and we all feel pretty miserable, though I am close to vomiting and looking up the systems later, I am clearly suffering from heat exhaustion. We walk out to the beach to look for sharks and crocodiles, but don't see anything. We wait for the sun to come up, I sit on a log and nearly pass out, but still nothing comes around. As we leave the beach we do see an agouti, they are cute. We do a little walk through the jungle. Rodolfo shows us a termite nest and then tells us to touch it and then eat them. He goes for Laura first and we can't tell if he is serious or making fun of us. She goes for it and then Andreas and I try one. Not the best lunch, but not that bad. Kind of squirmy and pretty gross if you don't crush them since you can feel them moving in your mouth. We head back to the ranger station for breakfast and then we head out for a second hike. We see peccaries which are wild boar and some deer. We also see a giant tree with huge roots that form walls as high as a person. Again, we don't have too much luck with the crocodiles or the sharks. We see some spiders and learn about some trees, but no big wildlife. We head back to the ranger station for lunch.
After lunch we take a siesta because it is far too hot to hike around, and all the animals take a siesta anyway. I really need it as I am close to delirious. I sleep on the porch for a couple of hours and that makes me feel much much better. Andreas also gets some sleep. When I wake up, Rodolfo starts to bet with me that we will see certain animals. We wager a pina colada that I will see an anteater. Sure enough a little while later there is a sighting of an anteater by the ranger station. I am to tired to check it out, but after everyone leaves Rodolfo drags me over there. I just see him as he wanders away in the jungle, but I guess Rodolfo won his wager. As it gets later in the afternoon, we head out for our third hike of the day. Now we head in the other direction and we are looking for tapir. We see some tapir poo and prints, which seems like a good sign, but the actual tapir eludes us. We do come across some more monkeys and then we chill next to a river mouth waiting for the sunset. The sunset is very lovely and then we walk along the beach back to the ranger station.
That night we can't eat at the station cause space is sold out, so Rodolfo cooks us dinner. We shower and rest up, and I feel better then I have since we left to start this adventure. Dinner is pasta and tuna. We discuss when we want to leave in the morning. There is an issue because part of the path is not passable at high tide so we to pass before of after that time, which is 7AM. Rodolfo wants to leave at 2AM. We agree to this plan, but talking it over it sounds kind of crazy. Another, 20km hike after only 3 or 4 hours of sleep. We decide instead to get up at 5AM and cross after high tide. That night we keep the doors of the tents open so that it is cool enough for us to actually sleep.
Day 10
We wake at 5AM. Not nearly enough sleep, but better then our first night. We pack up and get going, taking to long for Rodolfo, but heading out by 6AM. We first have to ford a river. It is very wide and not obvious how to do it, but Rodolfo leads us on a path that isn't very deep, in barely comes up to our calves. On the other side we quickly get out to the beach and then we hike a long the beach for awhile. Not nearly as hard as the first night, the hike quickly becomes tough having our packs on again and being so worn out from the previous two days. We walk along the beach for a few hours. Finally, we take a swim break, which is amazing. The water is perfect, clear and beautiful and our views are jungle and uninterrupted beach for as far as the eye can see. Then many more hours on the beach, till we finally veer off and walk some in the jungle shade. We see peccaries again, a lot of them this time, a whole big family. More monkeys of course, there are always monkeys, and birds and trees. We take a break and Rodolfo opens up a couple of coconuts for us. The beach is full of them, but he picks two that are really tasty, the best coconut meat I've ever had. Andreas and Laura are really in to them, digging at the meat for quite awhile, but I am pushing my limit and just rest and focus on getting to the end. At this point we start running into day trippers coming from the other direction, so we know we are getting closer, but not how close. There are still a few hours left and the my body has to use up all its resources to make it to the end. When we finally get out of the park I'm ready to collapse, but we have to walk another 100 meters or so to a hotel with a bar. I am not completely exhausted, I can't walk another 10ft. My feet, legs and back hurt and I just put my head down on the bar and lay there. We order some drinks and then another. I'm now drunk and nearly dead and I wander over to a hammock and pass out. Maybe 20 minutes later, they wake me up, because apparently we still have 2km more to hike on the beach. This hotel we are drinking at has no car access, you have to take a donkey wagon to get to it from the road. We put the packs on and head out. Rodolfo and Laura quickly out pace Andreas and I as we slowly try to make it to the end. Being drunk actually helps, I think the pain is less and is our attention on it, and eventually we make it to the parking lot where our taxi is waiting for us. We have a beer and then a crazy taxi ride over washed out dirt road and streams. We pick up two locals in the back of the SUV, and there damn cell phone is going off all the time while the three of us are trying to pass out.
We get back to Porto Jimenez and we make arrangements to meet Rodolfo for dinner. We head back to our place that we were staying at before we left for our hike. When we check back in there is a gecko waiting for me on my pillow, which I think is pretty impressive since they tend to move around. However, he really likes my pillow and I have to shake it pretty hard to get him off and out of my room. We shower and get some much needed rest and then head back to Porto Jimenez for dinner. We meet at this hangout spot that has mediocre food. Thankfully it turns out that Rodolfo just wanted to meet there and then we drive to a restaurant on the port. I get a tuna in an Asian soy flavored sauce. It is the best meal of the entire trip. Really outstanding, the fish was probably caught 15 minutes before being served. Laura and Andreas also enjoy their dinner, but not as much. We say goodnight to Rodolfo and head back to our lodge. Tomorrow we head back on the dirt road to Carate for two nights of relaxing by the beach. I don't think our bodies can handle anything else.
Day 11
We wake up, glad to have slept in a real bed and starting to recover from the ordeal of our hike. We stop in Porto Jimenez at a bakery to get treats and then at the Supermarket. After getting gas, someone points out how fuel is leaking from our car. That might explain why we seem to be getting such bad millage once we fill up the tank. We head out on the dirt road our first stop being Matapalo beach, which Rodolfo recommended as his favorite. We take the turn off that he showed us the previous day and start driving through this rocky, dirt, washed out sort of a road. It goes on and on without being clear that it is going anywhere. There are some buildings around, but no signs and no sign of beach. We pull off to the side of the road to see if we are actually going somewhere. A car coming the other direction contains a surfing couple and they tell us the surfing beach is farther down, but the swimming beach is right where we are. So we head down the bath and find an open beach with one other couple on it. We plant ourselves down and try out the water. Another, group of three comes to the beach and they take the middle, we are all about 50m from one another. The beach is nice and the water is great, but at this latitude we can only take so much before we have to go seek shade. We finish the ride to Carate, the river crossing turn out to be no big deal and we make it to the
Lookout Inn Lodge.
This is a beautiful place all made of wood (you have to take your shoes off), about 100m up the mountain so it has incredible views of the beach and sea. We meet Jeff who shows us our rooms and makes small talk with us. He tells us he came down here because he is on the run from the law. My room is normal, but Andreas and Laura have a hut that has a completely open wall looking out over the jungle at the sea. The place is run by a gringo and his native wife. They have two dogs, their own Scarlet Macaw and a place for feeding monkeys. The Macaw does not come across as friendly, more pushy and demanding. The dogs are living the ideal dog's life and the only thing they do all day besides getting petted is howl when the conch shell signifying a meal is ready is blown. We meet on the balcony and have a glass of rum. The Macaw decided to join us and sits right down on our chair and then the table. He decides to try and taste the rum, first licking the inside of the glass and then knocking it over to taste the rum which he ends up not liking. As I said, not very friendly. A troop of monkey also come around to get the free bananas hung out to attract them.
We head down to the beach. On the way we pass the swimming pool which Laura encourages me to check out. The part she wants me to see is that it has a couple steps followed by a deep plunge. As expected I fall right in and she gets a good chuckle out of it. At the beach, Andreas and I try some body surfing. We head back up to the lodge for happy hour when we hear that a group was out fishing and caught about 200lbs of dorado. Lasagna is out, fish fest is in. We have drinks and watch the sunset as the meal is prepared. Dinner is delicious, both sashimi and cooked finish, soup, vegetables and fresh baked bread. It is served family style with everyone gathered around telling what they did during the day. A very comfortable environment. Though I think Laura is disappointed, people disappear pretty quickly after dinner and eventually we go to bed too.
Day 12
I wake up early and do some reading on the deck with the dogs. They blow a conch shell to let people know breakfast is served and the dogs howl along with it. I think this is their only duty and really the only time they aren't lying around. Breakfast is pancakes that are yummy, the day is starting off right. We head down to the beach and Andreas and I try some boogie boarding. The waves are large and crashing out far from the shore and we have trouble getting any good rides. We head back in and sit by the beach and read. Later we move up to the pool to sit in the hammocks. There is more of yesterdays fish for lunch. We head back to the beach and then Andreas and I try boogie boarding again. Out in the water I get knocked down by a wave and lose my board. I try swimming to shore the undercurrent is strong and the waves keeping knocking me down. I begin to realize that without a rest I'm not going to make it to shore. I get Andreas' attention and he lets me share his board with him. I make it close enough in that I can stand and then I make my way to the shore. I lay on the beach panting as I try to regain my breath. The ocean can be a cruel mistress. Andreas finally catches his wave, and then we head up for dinner. Dinner is delicious again, fresh baked rolls, salad, seafood soup and more fish. Also, plenty of cocktails. We head to bed, knowing that tomorrow is our last full day in Costa Rica.
Day 13
Our last day we again spend on the beach. We decide to pack our stuff, but to wait around till lunch before heading back to San Jose. More hours by the beach and pool pass uneventfully and then we have our last lunch, which is nothing to stay for, just cold cuts and some pasta with pesto. It seems the fresh fish had run out, and now things were back to normal. We leave the Lookout Inn Lodge and head back to San Jose. We first stop in Porto Jimenez as Andreas had his leg scratched up on the last day of our hike out of Corcovado and he feels the need to go to a pharmacy to treat it. Laura is making fun of him the whole time for wanting to treat his scratch, but he is man enough to suck up the abuse as long as he gets his bandages. The pharmacy is closed, I guess because it is Sunday, so we just head out on the road. We have a lot of distance to travel so we try to make some time.
The drive is pretty uneventful, we finally stop for a pharmacy in Jaco and Andreas gets his bandage. Then we eat at a restaurant that is recommended in the guide book, though it is unclear if it is really the same place or just shares the name. Anyway, this has got to be our worse meal of the whole trip, kind of a Bennigans version of Costa Rican and Mexican food. Leaving Jaco the drive becomes more exciting, it is dark now and the main highway we are taking suddenly ends leaving us on little windy two lane roads. We drive and drive into the night having no idea where we are or where we are heading. There are almost no cars on the road and no signs. We go up and up over this hill, possibly towards San Jose, and if not really far from anything. Finally, as we make it over the hill we can see the city lights of San Jose and we know we are heading the right way. However, we have no idea where we are in San Jose and how to get to our hotel. We drive for awhile and then seem to be going away from the city so we turn around and turn where other cars where turning. Now we seem to be going in the right direction and even heading towards the airport. We finally get to the main highway, but Andreas feels like the road we are on is the road of our hotel. I agree it looks similar, but the chance that the road we randomly end up taking to the highway is the turnoff to our hotel just seems to remote to me. However, Andreas ends up being right as we find our hotel up the road a bit just where we left it.
We check into our room and the only event is that an employee comes to our room later to tell us there is something wrong with the car. Andreas figures out that he is saying a branch fell on the car, but when we go out to look at it, it turns out he was just saying the light was left on. We turn off the light and go to bed.
The next day we head to the airport and back home. I wouldn't even write anything except we were fortunate enough to have one last adventure. We check out of the hotel and drive to the airport. We fill the car up with gas, before returning it to the rental agency. And then, our little car, which has always seemed like it is about to die on us, finally does. I turn the key and nothing happens. We try to communicate that we have a problem to the gas station attendant, who is nice enough to look under the hood. He sees that the battery has become disconnected and reconnecting it we are back on our way. I wonder if this had happened to us anywhere else how long it would have taken us to figure that out. We return the car and hit the airport, the end of a lovely trip.
